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kensington164
PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 12:16 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 14

I was having some issues it seems to be all fixed


Last edited by kensington164 on Mon Oct 24, 2011 9:36 pm; edited 4 times in total
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kensington164
PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 7:01 am  Reply with quote
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Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 14

All plug names are used from the front page wiring how to this link
http://projectzerog.com/wiring-how_to.shtml



This is where I am now with my project! I am trying to make myself a plug n play B38 to DSM engine harness plug. I went to the yard and got me a chunk of both ends of the DSM chassis harness so that I would have a female chassis harness to connect to the B38 harness to receive the male portion that is already connected to the engine harness. I am using the male section as part of this just to have a easy reference out side of the car. I failed to get a C67 male and female chunk. I will return for it and add new pics.





It seems like I understood some of this but not all of it and I hope this will be a good source for others looking to make simple connection under the Starion dash. There are a few question marks in places and I don't have a clue what to do there. To be honest im not even sure that I have any of them correct! I would like some help for that reason. I am willing to take more pics or help explain what I have going on here if it's not clear enough. This seems to be the hardest part of the wiring for me. I appreciate your help and please feel free to point out whatever you see.



I tried to break it down by plug and what connections each wire needs to make.



B38 wires

Pin1 n/a
Pin2 +12v constant
Pin3 n/a
Pin4 +12v ignition
Pin5 switched +12v
Pin6 inhibitor switch
Pin7 oil pressure
Pin8 n/a
Pin9 n/a
Pin10 diagnosis output
Pin11 starter
Pin12 temp gauge
Pin13 boost gauge
Pin14 n/a

B38 connections

PIN2 = run to c67 pin 1
Pin4 = run to c59 pin 5
Pin5 = ?
Pin6 = ground to chasis
Pin7 = run wire from sensor
Pin10 = ?
Pin11 = run to c59 pin 2
Pin12 = run to c58 pin 10
Pin13 = run to c67 pin 8




C58 wires

Pin3 ignition pulse ecu
Pin10 temp gauge sensor

C58 connections

Pin3 = ecu pin109
Pin10 = run to b38 pin 12

C59 wires

Pin2 starter feed wire
Pin5 +feed CAS & coils
Pin6 +feed fuel pump

C59 connections

Pin2 = run to b38 pin 11
Pin5 = ?
Pin6 = ?

Pin4 ? Bill Hincher says this wire is the signal from the air flow meter. So what do I need to do with this so the fuel pump is only running when the engine is?
It seems i am having a problem with the text i copied and pasted showing up. Damn i dont want to have to rewrite all that stuff.[/url]
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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 9:19 pm  Reply with quote
Sir Post A Lot


Joined: 07 Apr 2004
Posts: 1772
Location: Hereford Zone, MD

On my most recent harness I just cut all the connectors off and kept only the ECU connectors and relay as (5') pigtails. Once I had this generic pigtail I just hooked everything in the engine bay (new connectors as necessary) based on the ECU pinouts / B38 pinout. I also added another connector for under the dash for any extra stuff (temp / egt / oil pressure) senders that I wanted to run through the engine harness. MUCH easier to shrink tube the whole thing this way. Sure it adds a bunch of extra solder joints, but they're quick and easy. I'll post a photo when I get it totally done.

_________________

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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kensington164
PostPosted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 6:06 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 14

That would be awsome all the resource you have on the site are great but I'm a visual learner I guess! Im gonna pm you about that exahust manifold you have for sale.
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songsayratana
PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 12:45 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 25 Mar 2011
Posts: 24

Thank you for the pictorial post.
I know each one of us with swaps have different circumstances when it comes to our cars.
In my circumstance I had no wiring at all and no experience with Starquest's.
A pictorial step by step of the basics is great.
Im sure there will be someone who comes along years from now who wants to achieve the same goals as we do today.
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kensington164
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 9:50 pm  Reply with quote
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Joined: 12 May 2010
Posts: 14

I'm hoping with the pics DJ uploads i can finish doing this and others will get the benefit of having something like this. I just wanna see more rwd 4g63!
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DJpowerHaus
PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 10:45 pm  Reply with quote
Sir Post A Lot


Joined: 07 Apr 2004
Posts: 1772
Location: Hereford Zone, MD

I am building two harnesses with my current swap to be used with the megasquirt plug and play. This deletes some things (Idle control steppers) and adds others (Coil on Plug). I've already built the first one and its all shrink tubed up. Once I prove it works, I will build the second harness and document the whole process with photos to put on here. This will take at least until the January 2012. Hope you guys can wait that long.

_________________

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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